The two springs closest to the Peake are called Yardiya Parnda and Yardiya Kupa, meaning big and little spindle. The two ancestral snakes Yurkunangku the red bellied black snake and Kurkari the green snake camped at Yardiya “and spent a lot of time just sitting there and making hair string with a spindle. To stop the wind blowing away the bits of hair they were using, they built a wind-break of rocks which are still there. Finally when they had finished they walked on up into the range on their way south.”
This story was taken from SA Dept of Environment & Planning (1986) Heritage of the Mound Springs: The assessment of Aboriginal Cultural Significance of Mound Springs in South Australia prepared by Dr Luise Hercus & Dr Peter Sutton.
Following the general reconnaissance focus of the 2007 FOMS field trip, it was time for FOMS members to roll up the sleeves and do a little work in the June 2008 trip. Eight members participated (Colin Harris and Elaine Smyth, Bruce and Sherrie Gotch, Travis Gotch, Lois Litchfield, Ann Callis and Simon Lewis pictured by Simon below). It was a pleasure to meet new members Lois and Ann and to learn a little about their respective life-times of experiences in the Far North. We were also joined for a day or so through the week by Kelli-Jo Kovac and Tash Bevan from BHP Billiton and new DEH Regional Ecologist Alex Clarke.
Following a mid-afternoon rendezvous at Roxby Downs on Saturday 21 June, we convoyed up the Borefield Road to a camp-site on the Gregory (same site as last year). On Sunday we moved on to Elizabeth Springs, in Wabma Kadarbu Mound Springs Conservation Park, where we donned gloves and collected rubbish at an old musterers’ camp. Then on to a camp-site in the dunes near Strangways Springs.
On Monday 23 and Tuesday morning we were joined by Kelli-Jo and Tash as Travis took charge of a survey of those springs at Strangways that still support wetland vegetation. In all we covered some 80 or 90 spring vents, leaving only a few for Travis to finish off at a later date.
On Tuesday afternoon we continued north through William Creek, dropping in to see Sarah Amey at the new Peake. Sarah’s partner Jim Lomas generously provided a trailer load of sleepers for us to use in con-
structing a vehicle barrier at the Peake Repeater Station at Freeling Springs. Travis somewhat bravely towed the trailer (with no spare tyre) up to the old Peake, losing only a few sleepers along the way and also managing to puncture a tyre.
On Wednesday and Thursday it was time to bend the backs and develop a few blisters with the installation of about 16 bollards (ie half sleepers) at the car park at the Peake ruins. The going
was quite tough but everyone contributed personfully and the job was completedon schedule. Bruce was able to put his recently honed chainsaw skills into action with some pre-
cision sleeper cutting while Sherrie and Travis excelled in the synchronised crow-bar event. We also erected a sign organised by the Pastoral Branch of DWLBC. Alex Clarke showed impeccable timing, arriving just as we finished the job.
There are other concerns at the old Peake regarding uncontrolled vehicle access and camping and we spent some time looking at a strategy to address this. This will be the subject of further discussion with the pastoral lessees, DWLBC and others.
Friday 27 June was our last full day in the field and we had a more relaxed time looking at a number of springs, including Hawker, Levi, Milne, Outside, Twelve Mile and the Fountain. The changes at Twelve Mile, particularly with proliferation of Phragmites, were quite remarkable. A final camp on George’s Creek near Old Umbum and we then headed for home. A highly successful week, a very companionable group and fantastic weather. Many thanks to all concerned.
The ecosystems associated with the GAB mound springs are of considerable biological significance, containing numerous plant and animal species, the vast majority of which are endemic (only found in a single environment), with very restricted distributions. The best-studied fauna of the springs are the hydrobiid snails, of which 23 species are described so far. Other endemic aquatic fauna include crustaceans such as isopods, amphipods and ostracods, a number of fish and less well-known invertebrates such as flatworms and mites. Some of these critters are relatively easy to see, others less so, and they require a microscope to identify them. Many people who have visited springs such as Blanche Cup or the Bubbler will have noticed things which look somewhat like garden slaters crawling around in the outlets of these springs. These are isopods known as Phreatomerus latipes and are a very unsual species endemic to the Lake Eyre Springs.
However next time you visit the springs take the time to sit for a minute and see what other life they are supporting. Sometimes something that looks like sand or dirt, can actually contain a writhing mass of life The black dots in the photo below are not grains of sand or dirt, but actually a tiny crustacean known as Ngarawa dirge. There are millions of them!!
Despite the listing of the springs as a “threatened ecological community”, there is relatively little known about their biology and ecology. The majority of research undertaken on the springs has focused on specific aquatic groups such as the snails. Knowledge of the aquatic fauna is particularly important due to the reduction in artesian pressure, which places these communities at direct risk of extinction. The nature of the mound springs environment means that individual springs are essentially “islands in a sea of desert”. Whilst this isolation has ensured that the mound spring animals and plants are particularly unique, it also means that spring communities are more susceptible to extinction from springs drying out or becoming uninhabitable as dispersal by plants and animals between springs is difficult.
A research team consisting of members of the University of Adelaide and The South Australian Museum, is currently undertaking research in the mound springs. The main goal of this research is to examine the biodiversity and evolution of the unique faun of these springs. The primary tool for our research is molecular genetic data. By examining the genetic data of these animals, we can examine many questions, for example; How many species are there? How long have the species existed in the springs? How easily animals disperse between springs? We are also interested in studying the ecological communities within the springs, this will help us to address questions such as; Do all the springs contain a similar collection of fauna? Are there springs with ecological communities which are unique compared with other springs? By attempting to answer these questions we will gain a greater insight into the biological environment of the mound springs. This will provide a means for management bodies to incorporate significant biological information into their decision making and help facilitate the conservation of mound springs communities in the Lake Eyre region.
The very first task that we have to undertake is an assessment of the number of species supported by the mound springs and the distribution of the species. This may seem like a straightforward task, and something that should perhaps already be known for these springs; however there are a number of complicating factors. Firstly we have to define a species; which is essentially something that interbreeds successfully to produce living offspring.
In order for a species to survive it must be able to adapt to factors such as available habitat, food sources, temperature, and predation (this is known as a species niche). Because of the restricted island-like nature of the springs, the spring animals must adapt to the environment to survive as they cannot simply move to another more favourable environment. The environment of the springs is mainly governed by a very steady source of groundwater from the Great Artesian Basin. This water is quite constant in its composition and does not alter significantly over time or geographic distance and it flows into a relatively stable and essentially arid environment with very little input of surface water. Therefore despite many of the springs appearing to be quite different in appearance, the underlying environment across these springs is very similar (particularly across similar geographic regions; for example the Dalhousie springs are all quite similar). One consequence of this environmental similarity is that many of the springs appear to contain the same groups of animals. Another consequence is that animals that fill the same niche in different springs (i.e use the same habitat, eat the same food, avoid the same predators) will have evolved in a similar way to fill this niche, and can therefore have evolved to have very similar features.
Amphipod from the mound springs
A good example of this in the mound springs is the amphipods. Amphipods are small, shrimp-like crustaceans, found in marine, freshwater and terrestrial,environments. Within the springs, there is generally a single type of amphipod found. It is quite small, generally less the 5mm long and difficult to see with the naked eye. however, when amphipods are present they are generally present in their hundreds Given that this amphipod is found in numerous springs, seemingly inhabiting the same environmental niche, it has been generally thought that it was a single species. However, how do we investigate this? Traditionally, we would use morphological (ie what they look like) differences and similarities to identify new species and estimate how closely related they are. If we cannot tell them apart we need to examine their genetic code and measure the differences by this means.
The use of genetic methods to do this is a relatively straightforward process. By examining the genetic code of two organisms we can determine how closely they are related. When examining more than three or more species we can use a branching diagram known as a phylogenetic tree to illustrate relationships, knowing that two species which share a common branch are more closely related to each other. The differences between species are known as mutations in the genetic code. Because these mutations occur at a steady rate we can also determine the amount of time that has passed since two species evolved. By determining the amount of genetic change we can see how many species of amphipods there are and also can trace their ancestry back and determine how long these species have existed in the mound spring environment.
So far, we have examined many of the amphipods from the Lake Eyre, Dalhousie and some of the Springsure springs in QLD. The amphipods in QLD and Dalhousie Springs are quite unrelated from each other, and from those at the Lake Eyre Springs. This is to be expected as these groups of springs are very geographically separate from each other and for them to contain a single species these amphipods would have to be able to travel over a lot of inhospitable country in order to interbreed.
The most interesting finding so far is that within the Lake Eyre Springs there are at least 10 new species of amphipod. Some of these are very similar to each other and some are incredibly different to each other (as different as humans and rats). Despite these enormous genetic differences and large increase in the number of amphipod species, these amphipods still look practically identical. Therefore, in biology they are referred to as a cryptic species complex. A cryptic species complex is a group of species which satisfy the biological definition of species, that is, they do not interbreed with each other, but they are not morphologically distinguishable.
Currently we are only in the early stages of our research and have only examined one group (the amphipods) from a relatively small (around 20) number of springs. Given that there are many other springs to examine, we expect to find many more “cryptic species” of amphipods.
We also plan to examine the genetic relationships of many of the other invertebrates within the springs and expect that they too are likely to consist of numerous cryptic species. The impact of this is that the number of different species supported by the mound springs will increase greatly, significantly increasing the importance of conserving these beautiful, unique ecosystems.
Finally, one of the more important questions that we wish to examine is ; Where did all of these unique species come from? The DNA evidence so far suggests that many of the species we have found have existed for around five to ten million years, since the geological time period known as the Miocene. Environmental conditions in inland central Australia, particularly around Lake Eyre, in the Miocene era were considerably wetter than today, with giant freshwater lakes and wetlands supporting species such as crocodiles and flamingos as well as many freshwater critters such as snails, amphipods and isopods. At the end of the Miocene period central Australia began to dry out to become the environment that we see today. Since this time the mound springs have represented the only permanent source of water within which aquatic animals and plant scould survive. Obviously they are not large enough to continually support large animals such as crocodiles and flamingos for the last 5 million years; however they could have definitely provided a refuge for the smaller fauna we find today. The geological evidence that might show that the springs have been around since wetter times has long since eroded away in the harsh desert conditions, however we may be able to use the DNA of the spring animals to enhance the scientific evidence that these springs represent living “time capsules”.
Written and photos by Nick Murphy, School of Earth and Environmental Science. The University of Adelaide.
Explorers and pioneers are usually the people who name things in the European fashion, and those original names usually persist. However, in the Mound Springs country, that may not always be the case. The explorer John McDouall Stuart discovered many springs in his visits to this region while surveying and seeking out country suitable for grazing. On Monday May 30th 1859, he came upon “a beautiful spring in the bed of the creek, for which I am truly thankful. I have named this “The Spring of Hope.” It is a little brackish, not from salt, but soda, and runs a good stream of water. I have lived upon far worse than this: to me it is of the utmost importance, and keeps my retreat open. I can go from here to Adelaide at any time of the year, and in any season. Camped for the rest of the day. Lat., 28 degrees 33 minutes 34 seconds.”
However, there are no springs known today by the name Spring of Hope. They were obviously significant finds in Stuart’s opinion. So the obvious question is – just where are they? On the recent FOMS field trip, the group visited Tarlton Springs, which is protected by a fence, providing an enclosure zone. These springs are located at the foot of the Davenport Range, north of William Creek in S.A. The absence of spring activity and the death of vegetation around the five vents inside the enclosure suggests that we have witnessed the ‘death’ of the five springs inside the enclosure. Also inside the exclusion zone are remnants of a stone building; possibly a stockman’s hut on the original Mt Margaret run. There is one viable spring about 400 metres to the south, and it appears to be heavily utilised by native and feral animal species.
Tarlton Spring
Here-in lies the value of field work. By noting from topographical maps that Tarlton Spring is on Hope Creek; by obtaining GPS observations which demonstrate that Tarlton Springs is at the same longitude & latitude as the Spring of Hope; and by matching Stuart’s other observations, there is a strong possibility that they are the same place. However, on our FOMS visit, there was one other clue that we sought to verify. Stuart’s journal records that he “built a small cone of stones on a reef of rocks that runs along the top of a hill about half a mile west-north-west from the spring, to which it will act as a landmark.”
A search on foot was not able to find the cone of stones, but this is not unexpected. FOMS member Rick Moore has located many of Stuart’s ‘Cones of Stones’ in recent years, (in 2004 he presented the Royal Geographical Society’s annual Brock Lecture, entitled ‘Cones of Stone’) and says that some of these would have been very low and easily disturbed by livestock over the last 145 years.
So, is Stuart’s Spring of Hope nowadays called Tarlton Spring? – very likely. If so, how did the name change come about? Ah, the small unsolved mysteries that make field work all the more interesting & challenging!
Yatjaparanha is where the Arabunna Fish History starts. Two huge ancestral Yellow- bellies appeared here and the Crane and other birds decided to drive them into the shallows by sweeping the water with bushes. They swept them along to Loudon Springs or Katirinha. At Brinkley Springs or Thurru-hurrunha one big isolated box tree next to the spring represents the wicked ancestral Crane Wurru. He was supposed to be in charge of the sweeping operation but was too busy making lewd gestures to his two daughters-in-law. On the upper Umbum Creek the Crane became so distracted that he let go of the bushes, and at Edith Springs or Mangkapil-jinha the fish escaped. A deadly curse was uttered which is associated with a red spring where nothing will grow, on top of the range not far from Mt Margaret. The two big Yellow-Bellies then went to Little Perry Spring and are still represented there by Markara-Pula. The two big lumps of this hill can be seen from far away. The Fish pursued by the Crane go through Primrose Spring or Papu-ngaljuru and camp at the two sandhills Mudlu-mudlu-pulanha to the north. They then split up and the two big Yellow-bellies go back north, and the Cranes go northeast to the lower Diamantina.
This story was taken from SA Dept of Environment & Planning (1986) Heritage of the Mound Springs: The assessment of Aboriginal Cultural Significance of Mound Springs in South Australia prepared by Dr Luise Hercus & Dr Peter Sutton.
A 3pm rendezvous at Roxby Downs for John & Leigh Childs, Sue Black, Bruce & Sherrie Gotch, Ann Gorton, Colin Harris & Elaine Smyth, Dean Harris, Simon Lewis, Rick Moore, Anne Pye, and Doug Smith & Heather Woods. Unfortunately Travis Gotch was unable to join the group for a few days because of damage to his work vehicle. The remainder of the party headed up the Borefield Road to a very satisfactory camp-site on the Gregory Creek, near the sign to New Year Gift Bore 2. We were fortunate to be joined at the camp-site by Bobby Hunter, manager of Stuart Creek station.
Monday 25th June
We met up with Justin Costelloe and colleagues from the University of Melbourne at the Borefield Road / Oodnadatta Track intersection. We also met with Reg Dodd (from the Arabunna community at Marree) who was accompanied by a group of Melbourne lawyers who are assisting the Arabunna people in their efforts to have heritage listing applied to Finniss Springs. Reg led the enlarged group in a guided tour of several points of interest on Finniss Springs. These included Finniss Spring ruins; several springs at Hermit Hill with their tall reed (Phragmites) communities; springs at West Finniss, where the group noted the very rare and isolated pipewort, Eriocaulon carsonii and attractive cutting grass Gahnia trifida (noteworthy as a disjunct species to that which occurs hundreds of kilometres to the south); and Bopeechee Spring, a spring that virtually ceased to flow as an apparent result of water extraction from Borefield A for the Olympic Dam mine, but which was “revived” through injection of bore water around the periphery of the spring to re-establish sufficient pressure to reinstate a flow. The FOMS group then headed north-west up the Oodnadatta Track. We had a brief stop at Curdimurka before venturing on to the Coward Springs Campground run by Greg Emmett and Prue Coulls where we camped for the next two nights.
Tuesday 26th June
Some of the group inspected a few of the springs in the northern section of Wabma Kadarbu Mound Springs Conservation Park – specifically Elizabeth Springs and Jersey Spring. For some, the Elizabeth Springs were one of the highlights of the trip – the springs were in fine fettle and the weather was superb. Before lunch, most of the party then ventured out to Coward Spring. This is a spring where reeds (Phragmites) have steadily encroached down the tail of the spring, displacing the bore sedge Cyperus laevigatus, following fencing in the mid 1990s. After lunch, the group had a look at Blanche Cup and The Bubbler. At Blanche Cup we discussed the impact of visitors trampling C laevigatus around the open pool. A low board-walk or low protective fencing were two options suggested to deal with this. We then split into two parties. One group ventured to springs in the south of Wabma Kadarbu (Horse, Buttercup, and the Mt Hamilton ruins), while the other group drove into Emerald Spring. At Emerald, a search for a cone of stones, thought by Rick to be nearby, was not successful. Bobby Hunter also rejoined us and regaled the group with his memories of Coward Springs when it operated as a railway siding complete with pub.
Wednesday 27th June
We proceeded to Strangways Springs with its ruins of the Overland Telegraph repeater station. The group had a short ramble around the ruins and some of the ~450 springs at Strangways (of which, according to Travis, about 50% are active). Then on to William Creek for lunch, refuelling and a chance to check out the bar of the William Creek Hotel. After lunch we carried on up the Oodnadatta Track to Warrina Siding where Colin, under Elaine’s careful supervision, gave the Royal Geographical Society’s plaque a good going over. Doug finished the job with a rinse and a scrub with a washing-up brush. With the afternoon flying by, we decided on a quick trip into the ruins of the Old Peake repeater station. This proved to be a good decision as the ruins were splendid in the late afternoon sun. Bruce then led us to a magnificent spring nearby – clearly the pick of the Freeling Springs. A wonderful sight with a large expanse of open water with some black swans in residence. We then returned to our pre-selected campsite on the Old Peake Public Access Route.
Thursday 28th June
Another fine day as we proceeded to the new Peake homestead where we caught up with Adam, the acting manager for Kidmans. Then down the station track to Milne Spring – with its bore, natural spring and impressive rock formations – and on to Levi Springs where the adjacent rock formations contain Aboriginal circular etchings or petroglyphs. After Levi we drove on to Spring Hill, where Rick led us to one of Stuart’s cones of stones at the top of the Hill – an impressive sight. The convoy then journeyed onto Tarlton Springs, where we also met up with Travis as well as Bruce and Sherrie (who had kindly taken Ann Gorton down to William Creek that morning). Tarlton confirmed our concerns from previous inspections – the Typha springs were essentially ex-springs with the Typha (bullrushes) dead and just a little of the sedge Cyperus gymnocaulos hanging on. We were interested to note, however, an active spring in the bed of Hope Creek outside of the fenced area (possibly Stuart’s “Spring of Hope”). That evening we camped at a very good site on Bulldog Creek.
Friday 29th June
Adam of the Peake Station joined the group at Outside Spring and we spent the first part of the day looking at springs nearby which had been fenced off in the 1980s. Kelli-Jo Kovac and Reece Pedler from BHP Billiton also joined us for the day. The four springs were Outside Spring showing extensive growth of Phragmites within the fenced area with little change since last inspection (2005), although the adjoining unfenced spring has an increased proportion of Typha; Twelve Mile Spring with extensive Phragmites with some Typha at top vent and a recently established area (~2 square metres) of Typha on edge of Phragmites near the top of Vent #3 (Phragmites has spread considerably at the top of the mound since the last inspection.); The Fountain which is a Phragmites dominated spring with little apparent change since the last inspection; and Big Perry where the Phragmites and Typha exhibited little change. With light rain developing, we drove on to George’s Creek for lunch and combined this with a walk over to the Old Umbum Station ruins. Then on to Louden Spring, once one of Stuart’s favoured camp-sites, now extinct. The group arrived at the campsite on the Douglas River in plenty of time to prepare for a camp oven extravaganza prepared by Travis, with pre-dinner nibbles laid on by Kelli-Jo courtesy of BHP.
Saturday 30th June
With final farewells, the group dispersed, some heading for home and others continuing to enjoy the region for another day or two. The week had been a resounding success: good company, great weather and plenty of interesting locations.